Banteay Srei - Citadel of beauty

We walked in the morning light past the linga -- sacred symbol of Shiva -- towards one of the smallest temples in Angkor. As we came to the main gate we saw why this temple is known as Banteay Srei -- meaning the "Citadel of Women" or perhaps "Citadel of Beauty". It is a temple in miniature when compared to the grand state temples of Angkor Wat or Banyon and its stonework glowed a warm shade of red thanks to the pink sandstone that is used throughout.

We were instantly captivated by the delicate carvings of female figures and detailed mythological narratives that cover every available surface.

Banteay Srei was built in the later half of the 10th century by Yajnavaraha, guru to the future king Jayavarman V. The temple, which is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva, has remained in use at least until the 14th century. It was rediscovered only in 1914, and was the subject of a celebrated case of art theft when a young Frenchman, André Malraux, stole four devatas in 1923 (he was soon arrested and the figures returned). Ironically, Malraux later became the French Minister of Culture in the deGaulle administration.

The main sanctuary stands on a t-shaped platform. The monkey guardians are reproduction sculptures.

Below stands one of the two library buildings; in the centre is a false door for spirits.

Rob asks Mr. Thy a question as we stand in the second gopura of Banteay Srei.

 

 

In Nature's relentless embrace

The heat and humidity of the Cambodian jungle are, in their way, relentless, but our visit to Ta Prohm -- a temple complex in eastern Angkor -- taught us about the living jungle's relentless ability to overtake monuments.  Ta Prohm is perhaps most famous today for the massive tree that dominates the first gopura or gateway into the temple enclosure, as shown in this iconic image.

Photo Brian Jeffery Beggerly

Unlike the majority of Angkor temples, Ta Prohm has been largely left to the clutches of the jungle. Why?

In 1177 and 1178, invasions of the Angkor region by the Cham had left the the Khmer capital in near ruins. Jayavarman VII decided to move his capital to Phnom Penh. While a few monks remained at Angkor Wat, the temples quickly succumbed to nature.  Seeds germinated in the stonework, weakening walls and roofs and causing collapse. In time, the temples were nearly lost to the jungle.  As French explorers came to Cambodia, they were guided by the local Khmer to their long abadoned temples.  In particular, the 1863 reports of French naturalist Henri Mahout published in Paris inspired Western interest. Everyone wanted to see the temple monuments he had described.

drawing of Angkor Wat by Henri Mahout

In time, adventurers were replaced by archeologists. The Ecole Francaise d'Extreme-Orient, founded in 1899, took responsibility for conservation of the monuments. Thousands of cubic metres of soil were excavated was temples were reclaimed from the jungle.  As Maurice Glaize explains in his still-definitive 1944 guidebook, The Monuments of the Angkor Group, "Even though the relentless force of the vegetation is the cause of so much damage, the École Française d'Extrême-Orient felt obliged to leave at least one temple in Angkor as an example of the "natural state" that so marvelled the early explorers, while also showing by comparison the importance of the effort already achieved in its work to safeguard these ancient stones. It chose Ta Prohm - one of the most imposing and the one which had best merged with the jungle, but not yet to the point of becoming a part of it - as but one specimen typical of a form of Khmer art of which there were already other models."

Today, conservation efforts have to protect the trees as much as the stonework.  If a tree falls, it will further ruin the temple remains. And yes, Ta Prohm is also the highly atmospheric temple from Tomb Raider (starring Angelina Jolie as Laura Croft) which was filmed here. Many come to this temple simply for that connection.

In one corner, our guide quietly pointed out an apsara's face which many call Cambodia's Mona Lisa.

Many writers have written descriptively of Ta Prohm. For me, the integrated juxtaposition of stone and vegetation was completely captivating.  I was also drawn to the contrast between restoration and ruin that was very evident at Ta Prohm.

View this short "atmospheric" video if you are interested in seeing the incredible detail in the stone carvings of Ta Prohm.

Sundown at Angkor Wat

For many people traveling to Cambodia, seeing the famous temple complex of Angkor Wat is the centerpiece of their trip. Built in the reign of Suryavarman II in the first half of the 12th century both as the capital and the state temple, it is the world's largest religious monument and the grandest of all the Khymer temples. The scale of the site, which covers 82 hectares, is immense and so hard to capture in photographs. Below, we are standing in front of the reflecting pool which fills during monsoon season. The main temple is behind us.

 

The temple itself stands in the middle on a terrace that covers nearly nine hectares. It is amazing to think that this architectural marvel was completed during the reign of one king. The pyramidal towers, created by means of stepped terraces, are a major feature of Khymer architecture and are meant to symbolize Mount Meru, the centre of the Hindu universe. At Angkor Wat, the summit of the temple is crowned with five towers.

It is possible to climb to the summit, but we were discouraged by the line-up just to begin the climb! We opted to walk with our guide, Mr Thy, and appreciate more of the structures and sculptures.

 

As the light changed with the setting sun, we saw the warm red tones of the sandstone deepen. And the sculptured lions darken.

 

 

The sun pushed the library into sharp relief.

 

And then it was time to walk the wide stone causeway across the broad moat that surrounds Angkor Wat. We left through the king's gate which is always larger than the other entry gates. See, there's my king below, appreciating our day's exploration of a true wonder.